Out side of DNA and fingerprints there is nothing more unique to an individual than hair! There are thousands of textures, grains,colors, not to mention growth patterns. The key to being great at haircutting is to KNOW the nature of the matter your are working with and to mold it to it’s natural expression. I’ve been working with hair for 30 years and it still amazes me more than ever the things I can do with even the most difficult hair if I follow those Laws. No battle more trying than fighting your hair every day. To get the most out of that ” matter” I try my best to respect the integrity of the hair. I can do a thousand things with healthy material and very little with damaged lifeless hair. It’s like building a house with rotten wood. I’m a proponent of weekly blow drys 1-2 a week shampooing, keratin conditioners, round brush and velcro curlers and DAILY BRUSHING. I advise against extremely HOT TOOLS, daily shampooing, over bleaching,processing. These sap the hair of moisture and structure. I have 24 yo clients who have hair loss far advanced for their age.
I started out apprenticing to a Sassoon disciple in 79 and he was very dogmatic about many things and I stayed in that box for many years. About 20 years ago I went to a Masters Class in Paris where all I did was cut hair for two weeks with a razor, an instrument I had nothing but contempt for since when I started it was the tool of ” beauticians”. That two weeks taught me valuable lessons. Use the proper tool for the job and every tool has a purpose. So I use all sorts of shears, razors, scissors, clippers etc and techniques to achieve the desired result for that particular type of hair. I have no “system” except the one that works for you. I cut hair dry & wet depending on the hair and the result I’m aiming for.
The styling is the realization of the structure, which is to say ” it don’t mean a thing if it ain’t got that swing”. If you ask the client the mark of a good cut is one that they can do for themselves. So if you can make it look good then a Pro can make heads turn in your direction whichever way that might be. I’m an advocate of round brush blow drying bringing lift and movement to the cut and softness to the face. I tend to stay away from flat irons except for effect and short bobs which it looks stunning on. Paramount is flexibility. I will show you step by step how you can do at least three different looks with your haircut.
I was a Color Director for seven years at the Robin Weir Salon in Washington DC and I devoted myself to only haircolor during that time. This is yet another example of the KNOWLEDGE that experience provides. Knowing what CAN and CANNOT be done is the difference between being miserable everytime you look into a mirror and smiling to yourself when you catch a reflection of your highlights in the window. Or worse walk around with a color and tone which clashes with your natural pigments. Another case of working with what you have to make it work. I use TOCCO MAGICO an Italian color line which is superior in every way . It uses herbal extracts to make it easy on the scalp and hair and delivers the most natural shades I’ve ever used but also has a Brillanti line which is bold and modern. The Blonding line is what I like the best. Mediterranean hair can turn notoriously brassy and being an Italian line they know how to control that with their high lift series and their Oxi lift lighteners with bring the boldest brunette to a neutral or beigey blonde in one step.
Foiling and Bayliage and Ombre techniques are favorites of mine and I use an approach I call ” woodgraining” on many clients, a process that can be done on any shade and accentuates movement using three different levels of tone.
This an area sadly neglected especially that the paradigm has become straight hair. Retexturing hair via thioglycholate acid is the easiest and safest way to alter the character of your hair. The size of the rod is the determining factor as to the strength of the curl or wave. I use flexi rods most of the time and get nice results usually going for soft wave to medium curl. Another way I make these ” perms” different is I will heavily razor hair before I perm it giving it a wind blown feel and requiring almost zero maintenance.
I use TOCCO MAGICO thio based straighteners. I do not do Japanese/Brazilian/Keratin straighteners.